Gap 360's Highlights of North India

Today is the very first day of our Highlights of Northern India tour with Gap 360. We got here a couple of days early so that we could have a look round Delhi beforehand and visit a couple of the places that you don't on the tour.

Our adventure officially starts at 6:00pm, as we all gathered in the lobby of our hotel, we had a quick meeting to go over the tour before heading out to one of the local restaurants. Where our guide showed us the the vast variety of flavors in the Indian cuisine. Amidst the aromatic spices and lively ambiance, we shared a bit about ourselves and got to know each other.

The next morning we head down to breakfast before our city tour. We meet Junaid who works for, Salaam Baalack. An organization started in 1988 from the profits of the film Salaam Bombay to help the children living on the streets in Delhi. When he was a young boy in Delhi the organization helped him recover from a life living on the streets having to struggle for every meal. To having a house, reconnecting with his family in the countryside and working as a social worker helping the organization save more children.

We thanked Junaid for sharing his story with us we headed to Jama Masjid, one of the largest mosques in India. Sharing many architectural similarities to the red fort Jama Masjid is a beautiful towering structure in the centre of Delhi it offers panoramic views or the city. Both the fort and the mosque we're built in the 17th century by Emperor Shah Jahan.

After exploring the intricate beauty of the mosque, we embarked on a fascinating journey through the bustling streets of Delhi, immersing ourselves in the vibrant culture of the city. Our next stop was the awe-inspiring Sikh temple, a place of immense spiritual significance and community service. As we entered the temple, we were struck by the sense of unity and generosity that permeated the atmosphere. Witnessing the massive kitchen in action, where dedicated volunteers prepare and serve meals to an astonishing 10,000 people daily.

After our visit to the Sikh temple, we made our way back to the hotel, carrying with us memories of the profound impact of our interactions and experiences. As we prepared for the upcoming journey on the overnight train, we reflected on the day's events with a sense of gratitude and reverence for the cultural treasures we had encountered.

We boarded our sleeper train at around 11pm and we're so exhausted from the prior days we basically fell straight asleep. The rhythmic clack of the tracks being surprisingly relaxing, but using my backpack full of our equipment as a pillow wasn't the most comfortable.

Upon our arrival in Bikaner at the as the sun rose, the bustling city was just beginning to stir. We wasted no time and hopped into tuktuks, to take us away to a hotel where we could rejuvenate after our journey. The brief respite allowed us to freshen up and gather our belongings before embarking on the next leg of our adventure - a journey into the heart of the mesmerizing Thar Desert.

As we ventured deeper into the desert landscape, I couldn't help but marvel at the stark contrast between the vast expanse of the rolling sand dunes and the unexpected sight of a large field of wheat flourishing under the relentless desert sun. It was a testament to the resilience and ingenuity of the local villagers who had managed to cultivate such a fertile oasis in the midst of an arid wilderness.

As we made our way to our camping spot in the Thar Desert, the beauty and tranquility of the landscape enveloped us, filling us with a sense of wonder and awe. The shifting sands and the golden hues of the setting sun created a magical ambiance that seemed to transport us to a different realm, far removed from the hustle and bustle of urban life.

During the night the heat from the desert quickly dissipated to be replaced by what began as a cool breeze that quickly rose into a sandstorm. When we left the camp the camp looked so serene and tranquil. With all of the previous days activity swept away by the sand.

Back in Bikaner we returned to the hotel where we had left our large backpacks. It was an old heritage building owned by nobility at the time. He is also a big collector of antique cars so the hotel grounds has some very well maintained vehicles that looks amazing in pictures. We were staying close to Bikaner fort so we had the option to go and visit the inside of the fort.

Our next stop was the golden city of Jaisalmer, one of my personal favourite spots on the tour. The striking sandstone fort towers over the rest of the city catching the light and looking extremely impressive.

The king of Jaisalmer built a reservoir in 1400AD giving the city a consistent supply of water for both agriculture and drinking water. This shimmering lake is a stunning feat of ancient architecture, with platforms and guard stations positioned within and across the exterior of the lake.

Within the walls of the fort even more beautiful architecture is on show. The sandstone lattices line the windows are intricately carved from one block of solid sandstone. So if there is a single mistake it is all thrown out and the carving has to be started again from scratch. The architecture in Jaisalmer was some of the most intricate carvings I have seen on this trip and well worth your time of you decide to visit India.

From the glowing sunbaked sandstone the blue city of Jodhpur was a drastic change of scenery. The cooling effect of the blue paint makes the temperature in Jodhpur much more comfortable. We only had a short time in Jodhpur but we loved to see the beautiful city. We took a open backed Jeep into the villages surrounding the city and visited Roopraj Bhobariya Who has made carpets for many people including Marten Pieters (Vodafones CEO) and has photographs with King Charles.

Having been travelling through the Thar desert when we got to Udaipur the city of lakes it was once again a very drastic change in the surrounding scenery.

The hotel situated in the centre of the lake has been in multiple films including James bond. It would be a very enticing place to spend the night except for the fact that one room will set you back £1200 a night. Which isn't very close to the concept of Paradise on a Budget. Instead we were staying at a small hotel with a beautiful rooftop bar. One of the most interesting things I did in Udaipur was having my palm reading done. Being a bit of a cynic I found the whole experience fascinating, he took me through the positions of the planets during the time I was born. I can definitely recommend this experience to anyone as it was an interesting look into the basis of the ancient rules of astrology.

We also visited some artists creating highly intricate paintings, in a traditional way. He talked us through how he creates each powder for each paint colour, then the different scales of brush from the thicker ones to the intricately fine brushes made from camel eyelashes. He then gave us a demonstration of just how fine the brushes were by painting a different animal on each of our fingernails. The next day we also returned to him to receive some henna tattoos, whilst these aren't traditional styles they're a very creative form of art as he styles them all from imagination.

This city is home to some really beautiful rooftop cafés and restaurants if you want a serene view of the lake and of Jagmandir hotel. We finished our time in Udaipur with a traditional cooking demonstration where we helped make some traditional dishes.

To mark the halfway point in our Highlights of Northern India tour, we had a short stay in Pushkar, the holy city of Brahma. Pushkar is a very special city in the Hindu religion as it is home to one of the few temples dedicated to the god Brahma, the creator in the Hindu trinity of deities. The Brahma Temple, also known as Jagatpita Brahma Mandir, is believed to have been built in the 14th century, although the original structure is said to date back to much earlier times.

Pushkar is also famous for its annual Camel Fair, one of the largest camel and livestock fairs in the world, attracting visitors and traders from all over India and beyond. The city is situated around Pushkar Lake, a sacred body of water with 52 ghats (stone staircases) where pilgrims come to bathe in the holy waters.

In addition to its religious significance, Pushkar offers a vibrant cultural scene with bustling markets, colorful festivals, and traditional Rajasthani cuisine. The city’s narrow streets are lined with shops selling local handicrafts, jewelry, and textiles, making it a popular destination for tourists seeking a unique shopping experience.

The serene ambiance of Pushkar, combined with its rich spiritual heritage and lively atmosphere, makes it a memorable stop on our journey through Northern India.

Having had a short rest in Pushkar we headed into the countryside of India to Tordi Sagar. Staying in a large family home owned by one of the dukes we had a great time meeting some of the people who lived there. Built by a duke called Thakur Jorawar Singh Ji in the 18th Century for when royalty visited the small town. The building is a striking silhouette with it's large turrets and balconies. But the hosts made us feel very welcome.

We had a walk around the local villages and the famous dam in the area. It had been a while since the monsoons had hit Rajasthan, so the dam was nothing but a small lake surrounded by miles of rich, fertile farmland. The dam, which serves as a crucial source of water for the region, plays a vital role in the local agriculture.

When the monsoon rains arrive, the landscape undergoes a dramatic transformation. The dam, designed to manage the heavy rainfall and prevent flooding, fills up, creating a large reservoir. This reservoir is essential for irrigation during the dry months, ensuring that the farmland remains productive.

During the monsoon season, farmers often pack up their temporary huts and move to higher ground to avoid the rising waters. These huts, usually made of natural materials like bamboo and thatch, are easy to dismantle and reassemble. As the water spreads across the fields, it rejuvenates the soil by depositing a fresh layer of silt, rich in nutrients.

This seasonal flooding is a natural process that has sustained agriculture in the region for centuries. It ensures that the land remains fertile and productive, supporting the livelihoods of the local farming communities. The farmers return to their fields once the water recedes, planting crops that thrive in the nutrient-rich soil.

The walk through the villages and around the dam provided a fascinating glimpse into the resilience and adaptability of the local communities, who have learned to thrive in harmony with the challenging yet bountiful environment of Rajasthan. We then climbed the large sand dune to have a picnic watching the sun set down behind the haze of India. That night we had a little party within our group, we also thoroughly beat the other group at karaoke. But in the morning after a short game of cricket it was time to head off again.

Journeying towards Jaipur in our jeeps, we stopped off at the Amer stepwell, a remarkable example of ancient Indian engineering. Dating back to the 10th century, this stepwell was constructed to provide a reliable water source for the surrounding city. Stepwells, or baoris, are extremely common in the Indian subcontinent and serve both practical and aesthetic purposes.

The Amer stepwell, also known as Panna Meena ka Kund, is an architectural marvel with a distinctive geometric design. The well features a series of symmetrical steps that descend in a crisscross pattern, creating a visually striking appearance. These steps not only provided access to the water but also served as a place for the community to gather, rest, and escape the heat.

The stepwell was built to harness and store rainwater, ensuring a consistent water supply during the dry months. Its deep, tiered structure allowed water to be collected and conserved efficiently. The presence of such stepwells was crucial in arid regions like Rajasthan, where water scarcity was a constant challenge.

Stepwells like Panna Meena ka Kund are a testament to the ingenuity of ancient Indian architects and engineers. They reflect the advanced understanding of water management and sustainable practices that were integral to the survival of civilizations in harsh climates. The stepwell remains a symbol of the historical and cultural heritage of Amer and continues to attract visitors with its beauty and historical significance.

We spent the rest of our first day in Jaipur exploring the Amber fort, it was named after the name of the city at the time which was Amber. The sun reflects down the sandstone corridors. Like many of the forts in India it was repeatedly expanded throughout the centuries. Perched on a hilltop, the fort offers stunning views of the Maota Lake and the surrounding landscape. Built in 1592 the Amber Fort is a splendid example of Rajput architecture, blending elements of Hindu and Mughal styles.

As we wandered through the fort, the sun reflected off the yellow and pink sandstone corridors, casting a warm glow that highlighted the intricate carvings and architectural details. One of the most enchanting parts of the fort is the Sheesh Mahal, or the Hall of Mirrors. This exquisite room features thousands of tiny mirrors embedded in the walls and ceiling, creating a dazzling display as light bounces off every surface. Apparently a single candle in the Sheesh Mahal can illuminate the entire hall due to the reflection of the mirrors.

Waking up at 5am for our morning bike tour and the city is already bustling. People heading to the markets with bags full of produce to sell. We head down the busy streets of Jaipur to various spots across the city. We visit the flower markets, an assault on the senses as every colour of flower is being sold for various worships or other practices. The flower market leads into the spice market where the strong spices are weighed out for people to purchase.

On the way to the morning prayer we feed a couple of the street cows with some roughage, multiple people will feed these communal cows throughout the day so the responsibility is split between the local community.

Huge crowds of people gather in Govind Dev Ji Temple Jaipur to the morning worship, a form of weak liquid opium is often passed around. During the temple's construction, Raja Sawai Jai Singh II, the founder of Jaipur, acquired this idol from Vrindavan. Legend has it that the revered image of Lord Govind Dev Ji was crafted by Barjranabh, the great-grandson of Lord Krishna. We watch most of the prayer before leaving before the huge crowd and head to laughing yoga to help wake us up.

Not exactly something I would usually participate in laughing yoga is a common practice across India. Said to improve your mental wellbeing and start your day off with a smile. There is even some scientific research to back this up, even if is possibly is just a placebo.

One of the key points to see in Jaipur is the gem market. If you had your palms read previously in the trip they will have told you what gems and stones fit your sun and moon signs in their belief system. If you're interested you can pick out the specific stone you want and have it cast into a ring or pendant that very same day.

Speaking of astrology, Jaipur is home to the Jantar Mantar, an astronomical observatory built in 1734 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, the founder of Jaipur. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the largest and best-preserved observatories in India, reflecting the scientific advancements and astronomical knowledge of the time. The huge structures look fascinatingly modern in their unique shape and design. Jantar Mantar consists of 19 architectural astronomical instruments, each serving a specific purpose in the study of celestial bodies. These instruments were designed to measure time, predict eclipses, track the location of major stars as the earth orbits around the sun, ascertain the declinations of planets, and determine celestial altitudes

Our night in Jaipur started with visiting a Bollywood film "the crew" which was all in Hindi but we still enjoyed the experience and could mostly make out the plot. We left the cinema and went to a nearby bar where after a couple of drinks the rings we had purchased previously in the day were delivered right to our table.

As our trip draws into the last few days there's one very important building we haven't been to see yet.

The Taj Mahal

Unfortunately our train to Agra that morning was cancelled meaning we had to head back to our hotel to wait and find out what we were going to do. Luckily we were on a Gap 360 tour and we were given a private bus to take us to Agra.

As we head into Agra we pass the Baby Taj, built 13 years before the construction of the Taj Mahal the baby Taj was built to commemorate the life of Ghiyas Beg by his daughters husband.

Its true name Itimad-ud-Daulah meaning Pillar of the State come from the man buried inside it.

The four channels across the grounds of the baby Taj held water and represented the four waters of life, water, honey, wine and milk. Said to be flowing in the afterlife.

Within the walls you can see intricate paintings of animals and local flora painted onto the marble.

If you want to get a glimpse of the Taj before there is a popular spot across the river where people will gather to watch the sunset as the Taj glimmers in the dusk haze.

The next morning was yet again another early one. We were so early we were the very first people in line to the Taj Mahal grounds as we wanted to see the view before it got busy and we would be able to watch the sunrise.

The Taj Mahal began construction in 1632 (not 1631) by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who passed away in 1631 during childbirth. Mumtaz Mahal's dying wish was for Shah Jahan to create a monument that would symbolize their eternal love, and in response, he embarked on creating what many consider the most beautiful building in the world, often referred to as "heaven on earth."

The design of the Taj Mahal is a masterpiece of Mughal architecture, characterized by its harmonious proportions and exquisite craftsmanship. The mausoleum is renowned for its perfect symmetry. Each of the four towers at the corners of the site lean slightly outwards, a deliberate architectural innovation to ensure that in the event of an earthquake, the towers would fall away from the central structure, protecting the main tomb.

The construction of the Taj Mahal was a monumental task that took 22 years to complete, involving over 20,000 artisans, craftsmen, and laborers. Materials were sourced from all over India and Asia, with the white marble coming from the quarries of Makrana in Rajasthan, jade and crystal from China, turquoise from Tibet, and lapis lazuli from Afghanistan.

When Shah Jahan died in 1666, he was buried next to Mumtaz Mahal in the Taj Mahal. His cenotaph was placed asymmetrically to the south of hers, disrupting the otherwise perfect symmetry of the interior of the mausoleum. This off-center placement marks the only visible asymmetry in the symmetrical structure.

The very last stop on our trip is the spiritual city of Varanasi, but the train from Agra only stops at the station for two minutes. So you have to hire a porter to tell you where your carriage will stop at the station. Luckily we got onboard without a problem and were on our way to Varanasi.

Varanasi is a very important place for Hindus in India. As it's one of the places where the cremations are carried out on the edge of the river gangies. The ashes are then cast down the river and the spirit goes onto the next life. The body is burnt using sandalwood if you can afford it, or any of the other kinds if not. Many of the rings and other valuables are left on the body when they die, so after the cremation some of the less fortunate people try their luck panning through the ashes in the river.

When we first arrived we took a trip round the city, thought the old town and into the newly constructed Kashi Vishwanath Corridor. This was constructed in 2021. Our first night in Varanasi we watch Ganga Aarti 'The Night Prayer'.  From a boat on the gangies. This is a huge gathering that takes place across the banks with multiple steps in the prayer dedicated to different gods. From the lighting of the incense dedicated to older relatives to the cobra shaped lamp dedicated to Shiva.a

We watched this prayer for the set up and the whole 45 minutes for the prayer to conclude at the blowing of the conch shell. With the smoke from the incense casting a haze over the oil lamps and candles and the huge crowd of people all in prayer it really is a sight to behold and worth watching if you're in Varanasi.

The next day we get up before to sunrise to watch the morning Varanasi prayer. This is quite a unique prayer in India because it has women chanting as well. These are the Pandita and they study all four veda before debating the senior pandits. We then get on a boat and watch the sun rise over the opposite bank. We do some yoga as our little boat drifts down the gangies then start our final day in Varanasi. We take another more in-depth tour around Varanasi, watching some of the blessings taking place and the streetfood being prepared in the markets.

With one last sleeper train our Highlights of North India tour is over and we say goodbye to all of the amazing people we met. I want to give a special thank you to Abhi our guide who showed us his favourite parts of India